Aftermath of a massacre

BARELY hours after the brutal massacre of 25 tourists and a pony operator at the picturesque Baisaran meadows in Pahalgam on April 22, young shopkeeper Riaz Bhatt was fervently mobilising a crowd of protesters at Maisuma Bazar in Srinagar, less than 100 km away. In a locality that had gained notoriety for being the “nerve centre of stone-pelters”, Riaz’s spontaneous appeal for a candlelight protest in the heart of the city at Lal Chowk conveyed an unmistakable message. “Kashmir,” remarked the youngster, “could not have remained silent this time. The images from Baisaran were just gut-wrenching. We have seen innocent people die over the past three decades of violence, but this could move even the most cold-blooded.”

Not just candlelight marches, Kashmir shut down the very next day. Leaders from across the political spectrum and trade as well as business associations lent their support. Srinagar and major towns like Kupwara and Budgam, which were once known to be infested with militants, wore a deserted look, something similar to the hartal calls given by separatist leaders several years back.

“The incident wounded the collective conscience of the people of Kashmir. What we witnessed in the form of spontaneous protests, candlelight marches, and public outpouring of grief and condemnation is an expression of that shared pain and outrage. The brutality of the act targeting innocent civilians and families was so shocking, so inhuman, that it touched every heart,” Hurriyat chairman Mirwaiz Umar Farooq told The Tribune.

“Kashmiris have never endorsed such killings. Whenever innocent people have been killed, people have come out and this time the whole of Kashmir observed a complete bandh. It was to show that we are in solidarity with those who have been killed. This time every household mourned and people felt that the whole of humanity had been killed in this incident,” commented Sheikh Ashiq, leader of Lok Sabha MP Engineer Rashid-led Awami Ittehad Party.

What was in stark contrast with earlier protests, according to locals, was that the outpouring was spontaneous and had an emotional appeal.

Violence and bloodshed have had a constant presence in Kashmir for decades. Understandably, incidents like Pahalgam have reopened wounds.

Seventy-year-old Nanak Singh of Chittisinghpora in Anantnag virtually locked himself up after news about the Pahalgam massacre flashed across TV channels. Less than 50 km away from the massacre site, his village was reliving its own nightmare 25 years back. On March 20, 2000, armed gunmen had stormed the Sikh-dominated village, killing 35 persons, seven of them from Nanak Singh’s family, including his 17-year-old son.

“We couldn’t eat that night when news came in from Pahalgam, couldn’t sleep. It was as if we were witnessing again what had happened that fateful night. How much more blood will we spill in the state, God only knows,” a pained Nanak Singh told The Tribune. The village continues to be haunted by the gruesome killings when young boys were ordered to assemble near the local gurdwara and killed in cold blood.

“Naturally, Pahalgam-like massacres bring back those memories. That’s what these merciless killers did to us too, showing no respect for lives,” commented another villager, Joginder Singh.

The carnage has not only reopened wounds, but also put the livelihood of thousands of Kashmiri families in peril. Over the past few years, Kashmir valley has witnessed a massive increase in the number of tourists. In 2024, nearly 2.36 crore tourists visited the UT — the highest ever figure. They included foreign tourists and Amarnath and Mata Vaishno Devi pilgrims. The Central government had embarked on a major tourism promotion drive after the abrogation of Article 370 and in recent years, this had begun to deliver results.

“Today, it is the time of social media. You have everything in your phone, and it reaches everywhere quickly. When the incident took place, the images went viral. The videos and images showed the barbarism that took place, and everyone was beyond hurt, and affected over what happened to the innocent tourists,” says Mushtaq Pahalgami, who heads the Pahalgam Hotel and Guest House Owners Association.

Jammu and Kashmir witnesses a surge in tourist traffic from April onwards, but now, most of the popular tourist destinations resemble ghost towns. Travel operators are suggesting alternate destinations in other parts of Kashmir or in Jammu region, but as of now, there aren’t many takers.

“Till the tragedy struck, we were not able to get time to eat our meals because of the rush of tourists. We are jobless today. There is no tourist left in the town,” laments Ishfaq, a pony ride operator in Pahalgam.

At Dal Lake in Srinagar, the flow of tourists has been reduced to a trickle. Empty shikaras stand lined up along the banks of the lake with operators even coaxing a few remaining tourists to take the ride at 70 per cent less cost. “We were doing brisk business. For the last two days, I haven’t got a single customer. Everything seems to be finished,” says boat operator Aijaz Ahmed.

Even the rush at the Tulip Gardens, which is a major tourist attraction, has gone down considerably. The situation is no different in Gulmarg and Sonmarg.

A few tourists who have managed to stay on are apprehensive. “We have been offered all help by the locals, but it is not easy to let go of the fear that has been triggered. We are a little apprehensive. We had Pahalgam on our itinerary but have dropped it for obvious reasons. For now, we are staying put in Srinagar,” says Rashmi Sonwalkar, a tourist from Pune.

“Whatever days are left in April, they are gone as far as the tourist influx is concerned. Even for May, tourists are postponing their trips. But we are hopeful that from June onwards, there could be a turnaround once confidence is restored among tourists,” says Rauf Tramboo, president of the Travel Agents Association of Kashmir.

Kashmir’s premier traders’ body is finalising an outreach campaign to not just show solidarity with those who were killed that fateful afternoon, but also to restore the confidence of the domestic tourists. “Our teams will fan out across the country and have been tasked with two things. They will meet the families of those who were killed in the carnage and express solidarity. We will also go across with the message that we want them back, it’s their state as much as it’s ours. That it’s safe and such a diabolical act needs to be resisted together,” says the secretary general, Kashmir Chamber of Commerce and Industry, Faiz Ahmed Bakshi.

What has compounded the fear among travel operators and local Kashmiris is the alleged portrayal of Kashmiris by a section of the media. “Such an incident has happened for the first time ever and we recognise that it will tarnish the image of Kashmir significantly. It will have repercussions on the growth of tourism given that there’s so much negativity and fear being spread. Media houses should stay away from creating fear because tourism not only brings economic prosperity, but also bridges the gap between communities. If people want to defeat terror, they have to keep coming to Kashmir in large numbers,” remarks Srinagar-based tour operator Farooq Ahmad Kathoo.

The incident has also fuelled fears on the safety of Kashmiris studying or working in other parts of the country. “We have to build a safe environment not just for tourists, but for our children too who are in other parts of the country. If we portray a negative image of Kashmiris, it will not help anyone. There should be no politics over this unfortunate incident,” says Tramboo.

The lack of clarity over questions being raised about security lapses — the opening of the Baisaran location on April 20 allegedly without informing the security forces, for instance — is adding to the confusion and the rumour mills. “On the one hand, the Centre says it is promoting new and old tourist destinations and on the other, we are being made to believe that Baisaran was thrown open without considering the security aspects,” says a Srinagar-based tour operator.

As the country mourns the gruesome killings and tries to come to terms with the barbarity of the massacre, Kashmir finds itself at a crossroads again. In one instant, the distinction of being among the top domestic tourist destinations and a safe paradise faces a harsh reality check. ‘When tragedy strikes’ — it’s a familiar actuality for the Valley.

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