Opinion: Book Review | 'Curious Cousins': Connecting Cuba And Kerala

Mad about Cuba: A Malayali Revisits the Revolution by Ullekh N. P.; Pages 256; Price Rs 399

Growing up in Kannur in the north of Kerala, Ullekh starts with the story of his Cuba-infused childhood and continues with his trip in 2023 to the island nation, a trip he calls his 'Cuban dream' (p 98). This deep connection between Cuba and Kerala he demonstrates goes beyond translated literature, fruits, foliage, and Communism. This unique book straddles both travelogue and political commentary with disarming ease.

In thirteen chapters, Ullekh reaches for wide-ranging secondary sources from declassified CIA files to books by academics like the Cuban scholar Helen Yaffe to tell the story of Cuba before and after the revolution of 1959. Not to mention his own first-hand observations about the people, places and ideas that have shaped the Cuba of today.

Ullekh's journalistic eyes don't miss much. He nostalgically reminisces about his connection to Fidel Castro through childhood memories and translated books. This is where the Kerala-Cuba connection gains a foothold. Then he explores the role of religion in a (formerly) atheist state of Cuba. Next, he surveys the aspirations of the young Cubans who have a different point of view to their parents who supported the revolution.

No book about Cuba would be complete without addressing the US sanctions on Cuba whose long and chequered history is covered in detail. The impact of these sanctions (the Cubans prefer 'blockade') is visible on the streets of Cuba such as the vintage cars, run-down neighbourhoods, power cuts, and food rations as well as a thriving black market. On the positive side, Ullekh delves into Cuba's advances in biotechnology which have saved countless lives especially during the COVID-19 pandemic. In addition, Cuban doctors also serve internationally bringing medical care to Latin America, the Caribbean, Africa, Asia, and the Middle East.

Following this, Ullekh analyses the historical context and consequences of Cuban entrepreneurship after the July 2021 protests. Next, Ullekh returns to his role of the traveller when he tries making the famous Cuban cigar at a UNESCO world heritage site called Vinales Valley under the eagle eyes of a guide.

Revisiting the Cuban revolution means also revisiting the relationship between Che Guevara, the charismatic Argentinian revolutionary, and Cuba. Ullekh tells us that while Che is everywhere on the island, he is not the pop culture icon that the West has made him to be but is seen as a serious leader and a thinker.

Towards the end of the book, the writer describes the troubles of travelling in Cuba as well as from Cuba to Canada via the United States. This is when one realises that the US economic embargo creates a chokehold in insidious ways that affect people not just those who live in the island country but those who want to visit as well. Finally, he wraps up the book by relating the history of resistance in Cuba before and after the revolution.

At every point, the writer compares Cuba and Kerala whether that is literacy rates, readers at cigar/beedi factories, flora, food and beverages, etc., which goes to illustrate how close Cuba is to his heart. It occupies a space right next to his beloved Kerala.

As befitting a traveller to Cuba, Ullekh investigates and deflates popular myths like Ernest Hemingway's favourite drink. In a hilarious turn, Papa Hemingway's - as the Cubans refer to him - favourite food remains a mystery.

Ullekh's conversations with a wide variety of people at the bus station, outside restaurants and bars all reveal the many Cubas that live side by side. Cuba is not a monolith. He also describes the people he meets so vividly that they seem to be characters straight out of a Latin American novel - Ernesto the owner and cabbie of the vintage car; Senora Habana, the clairvoyant; Nelson, the cigar guide and others.

There is one striking feature that stands out: references to film and music in the book. An encounter with a local reminds Ullekh of the Jim Morrison song, 'People Are Strange' by The Doors (p 51). A man wearing an expensive chain around his neck makes the writer think of Al Pacino in Scarface (p 56). At the end of a day that starts with a dream, all he wants to listen to is 'The Lonely Shepherd' by Gheorghe Zamfir (p 183). Reading Mad about Cuba is akin to taking a trip through 21st-century cultural milestones. Both the physical and the cultural trips are rewarding.

(Moushumi Ghosh is an editor and writer based in Chennai)

Disclaimer: These are the personal opinions of the author

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