Chaats, chillies and chocolate: Indian Accent’s new tasting menu is all about traditional flavours with a modern twist

It's a houseful on a weekday at Indian Accent in New Delhi's The Lodhi, not a big deal for a restaurant that often finds itself on the 'Best 50' lists. Executive chef Shantanu Mehrotra, who helms the kitchen, is seen instructing the staff, meeting the diners, and telling them what's brand new on the menu.

While chef Mehrotra might be a man of few words, his food speaks volumes -- loud and clear -- evident from Indian Accent's new tasting menu, crafted by him.

"The idea is simple. We present India's traditional flavours with modern techniques," the chef explains the new tasting menu quite simply. Suffice it to say, there's no drama but simplicity; where every dish on the menu tastes like a bomb, with flavours that are impeccable, balanced, and hit the taste buds just right.

The starters

The new tasting menu begins with a mushroom soup, accompanied by blue cheese naan. These are followed by three different chaats. The first takes you to Gujarat as khakra is presented as a tart, filled with vatana (white chickpeas) and dhokla. Then there is the never-can-go-wrong aloo tikki reimagined in the French pavé technique, probably one of the best takes on popular street food. Next, we head to Maharashtra as kothimbir vadi, the famous Marathi snack, is served with a chilli-peanut thecha.

"The idea here was to present foods from the different states of India," the chef says.

Next, we head south. As I opt for the vegetarian meal, I'm served green jackfruit with congee, a rice porridge popular in Tamil Nadu, and narthangai, a fruit from south India. This is followed by ratalu shaami, boursin, urad dal kataifi; and achaari paneer, banarsi aloo papad, and red chili pickle, each packed with the right amount of flavours, nothing overpowering or subdued.

The main course

As I wait for the main course, a treat of nostalgia arrives on the table. It's strawberry, kala khatta sorbet, served in a mini pressure cooker. Although a palate cleanser, it reminds you of the ice lollies classic for the summer.

The main course comprises elephant yam, white asparagus, hajikame, veg nihari; served with dal, bhujia raita, and kulchas; making for a comforting meal.

The tasting menu hits it off the park in the desserts section, too, with dishes that aren't heavy but are balanced, comforting, and the right amount of flavours.

And the dessert!

First comes the Tender Coconut, Chocolate dessert - bite-sized but a burst of flavours. It's followed by malpua in crepe suzette style, served with orange sauce. With a tasting menu that bridges nostalgia, India's regionality, and innovation, Indian Accent reminds you why it continues to set the bar for modern Indian cuisine.

Society