The golden grasslands of Velavadar, nestled in Gujarat’s Bhal region, serve as the domain of one of India’s most iconic antelopes — the blackbuck. With spiraled horns resembling twisted daggers and a sleek, inky-black coat that contrasts sharply with the sunlit plains, the alpha male blackbuck commands his herd with strength and speed. In this sanctuary, he reigns supreme, a living testament to resilience and survival.

Situated in Bhavnagar district in the western state of Gujarat, the Velavadar Blackbuck National Park lies between the Gulf of Khambhat and the vast agricultural lands of Saurashtra. This strategic location, characterised by flat grasslands interspersed with saline plains and occasional wetlands, creates an ideal habitat for blackbucks. Spanning approximately 34 sq km, the park boasts of the highest concentration of blackbucks in India, with a thriving population of more than 3,000 animals.

Blackbucks are creatures of the wind and open skies and thrive in short-grass landscapes where their keen vision and swift legs offer protection from the predators. Once, they roamed freely across India, from Punjab to Tamil Nadu, and from Rajasthan’s deserts to the coastal regions of Odisha and West Bengal. However, their survival has been fraught with challenges.

Historically, blackbucks were prime targets for royal hunts, their majestic leaps turning into trophies for the princely states of Rajasthan, Gujarat and Madhya Pradesh. British colonialists continued the tradition, hunting them atop elephants and jeeps. Beyond sport, habitat destruction, agricultural expansion and poaching further threatened their existence. By the 20th century, their once-thriving populations had dwindled, leaving only scattered herds in fragmented habitats.

Amid these bleak circumstances, the Bishnoi community of Rajasthan and neighbouring areas in Punjab emerged as the blackbuck’s staunch protectors. Followers of the 15th-century environmentalist saint Guru Jambhoji, the Bishnois have for long adhered to a sacred code that reveres nature and wildlife. Their villages serve as safe havens where harming blackbucks is strictly forbidden. Over centuries, they have displayed unparalleled dedication to conservation, often risking and sacrificing their lives to prevent deforestation and protect wildlife.

It is due to their unwavering efforts that blackbucks continue to find sanctuary in regions like Jodhpur, Bikaner, Haryana and Punjab. Their presence is most visible in districts like Muktsar and Fazilka, where blackbucks take refuge in agricultural fields and community-protected areas. The Abohar Wildlife Sanctuary, also known as the Blackbuck Sanctuary, spans about 186.5 sq km, is unique in that it comprises private farmland of Bishnoi villagers, rather than a designated forest reserve.

Unlike other wildlife sanctuaries where government agencies enforce conservation, the Bishnoi community takes the lead here, preventing poaching and ensuring the safe coexistence of wildlife with human settlements. Their unwavering dedication has made Abohar one of the last strongholds of blackbucks in northern India.

Velavadar is well connected by road, rail, and air. The nearest airport is Bhavnagar, approximately 50 km away. Ahmedabad, about 150 km from the park, serves as a convenient entry point for tourists. The closest railway station is also in Bhavnagar, from where taxis and local buses provide easy access to the sanctuary. For those travelling by road, Velavadar is accessible via the Bhavnagar-Ahmedabad highway. The Gujarat Forest Department has developed eco-tourism facilities, including guided safaris, allowing visitors to experience the breathtaking wildlife of the region.

The park’s seasons dictate the rhythm of life. Monsoon brings a burst of greenery, rejuvenating the grasslands and filling seasonal wetlands with much-needed water. Winter arrives with cool breezes, making survival easier, while summer poses a challenge as temperatures soar above 40°C, leaving water sources scarce. The best time to visit Velavadar is between October and March when the weather is pleasant and the grasslands teem with activity.

Blackbucks play a vital role in maintaining the ecological balance of these grasslands. As grazers, they prevent the land from turning into dense thickets, ensuring that the ecosystem remains vibrant. However, they are also prey, particularly for wolves that rely on stealth and strategy to capture them. To evade these predators, blackbucks rely on their exceptional speed and agility. A single leap can cover 6 m, and with bursts of speed reaching 80 km per hour, they are among the fastest terrestrial animals in the world.

Beyond blackbucks, Velavadar also hosts striped hyenas, nilgai, jackals, and the occasional wolf that lurks in the shadows, testing the vigilance of the herds. Birdwatchers are in for a treat, as the sanctuary welcomes migratory harriers from Central Asia, along with pelicans, flamingos, and cranes.

As the sun sets over Velavadar, casting a golden glow across the plains, the sight of blackbucks grazing peacefully stands as a symbol of endurance and survival.

— The writer is a retired Indian Forest Service officer